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In the first chapter, Barbara Kingsolver establishes the premise of the book: It is an account of a year-long challenge she and her family set for themselves to eat locally, sustainably grown food. The family consists of Barbara, her husband Steven L. Hopp, her daughter from her previous relationship Camille Kingsolver, and her daughter Lily Hopp Kingsolver. The year begins when the family ends âour existence outside the city limits of Tucson, Arizona, to begin a rural one in southern Appalachiaâ (2).
They move to a farm, which Steven has owned for 20 years âwith a farmhouse, barn, orchards and fieldsâ (2). Their mission is to âattempt to feed ourselves animals and vegetables whose provenance we really knew. We tried to wring most of the petroleum out of our food chainâ (10)
Kingsolver then explores a history of the farming and food production industry in America. She explains that the âdrift away from our agricultural roots is a natural consequence of migration from the land to the factory [âŚ] but we got ourselves uprooted entirely by a drastic reconfiguration of U.S. farming, beginning just after World War IIâ (13).
At that time, the industrial processes and efficiencies developed for war turned toward agribusiness. Chemical fertilizers resulted in surpluses of specific crops like corn and soybeans. This was profitable, so â70 percent of all our midwestern agricultural land shifted gradually into single-crop corn or soybean farmsâ (14).
The government began to enact legislation favorable to huge, industrial farms producing only these high-yield crops. However, the over-processed foods made from them are high in calories and low in nutrition. As Kingsolver explains: âThe Green Revolution of the 1970s promised that industrial agriculture would make food cheaper and available to more people. Instead, it has helped more of us become less healthyâ (19).
Americans do not see this shift as much of an issue because âfood culture in the United States has long been cast as the property of a privileged class. It is nothing of the kind. Culture is the property of a speciesâ (16).
Recognizing the unhealthy situation of industrial foods, but also their convenience, the family set out âto proveâat least to ourselvesâthat a family living on or near green land need not depend for its life on industrial foodâ (22). Kingsolver documents their experiment throughout the yearâthe challenges, the victories, and the emotions.
This chapter also includes two short essays by Kingsolverâs husband, Steven L. Hopp. The first, âOily Food,â explores how each American consumes âabout 400 gallons of oil a yearâ (5) just in the cost of transporting their food across hundreds of miles. He points out that if Americans ate one meal a week composed of only local food, âwe would reduce our countryâs oil consumption by over 1.1 million barrels of oil every weekâ (5).
The second, âHungry World,â explores how the world produces âenough food to make every person on the globe fatâ (18) but that millions starve anyway. The issue is the complicated and counterintuitive system of shipping food around the globe, rather than making sure people have easy access to local food.
Kingsolver describes the official start of her familyâs local food experiment. First, they must decide when to startâthey cannot begin in the New Year, as the Appalachian winter would make it difficult to start a farm. Therefore, they begin in March, when the first harvestable food begins to grow in their gardenâasparagus.
Unlike most vegetables, asparagus is âa perennial, with a life span of many years;â (29) since they do not need to plant it fresh each season, it comes up first. Kingsolver uses the account of her family waiting for the first asparagus shoots of the seasonâand therefore the start of their experimentâto tease out how impatience has contributed to the current state of the food industry.
As Kingsolver puts it: âThe main barrier standing between ourselves and a local-food culture is not price, but attitude. The most difficult requirements are patience and a pinch of restraintâvirtues that are hardly the property of the wealthyâ (31). In fact, âwaiting for the quality experience seems to be the constitutional article that has slipped from American food customâ (32). The relatively easy, if high cost in terms of fuel consumption, availability of all kinds of foods at any time of year has conditioned Americans to ignore seasonality. She argues that this is not only a waste of fuel, but also a loss to taste, as foods taste best in season.
Kingsolver also describes early struggles her family faced in breaking these habits in themselves. Most notably, in late March and early April, the family craved fresh fruit when âfruits were only getting ripe in places where people were wearing bikinisâ (35). However, the author goes to the local farmerâs market where she finds rhubarb. Although not technically a fruit, it is âloaded with vitamin C and tarty sweetness,â and so is, in many ways, âthe April fruitâ (38).
Kingsolver reflects that the family felt the local food pledge was rather arbitrary at the start, with rules about what they could and could not buy. But she points out that millions of families have their own rules âabout cutting pastas by hand, rolling the sushi, making with care instead of buying on the cheap;â rules instituted in the name of âhappiness and healthâ (39).
This chapter also includes one short essay from Hopp, called âHow to Find a Farmer.â It explains how omnipresent farmersâ markets are, even in urban areas. Community-supported agriculture (CSA) is also popular, as âsubscribers pay a producer in early spring and then receive a weekly share of the produce all season longâ (37).
The chapter ends with an essay by Camille Kingsolver called âThe Truth About Asparagus.â She describes how, when she was younger, sheâd hated asparagus but that its high nutritional value and her parentsâ preparation won her over. She describes several ways to cook asparagus and provides a suggested Late Winter Meal Plan featuring only in-season items (41).
In âSpringing Forward,â Kingsolver describes the excitement she and her daughter Lily felt in April, when they began to plant the first seedlings of the season. In April, foods like âBronze Arrowhead lettuces, Speckled Trout romaine, red kaleâ are in season (48). These are heirloom plants, meaning they are âopen-pollinatedâas opposed to hybrids, which are the onetime product of a forced cross between dissimilar varieties in a plantâ (46). They are also plants that have never been genetically modified.
Kingsolver uses the account of her heirloom garden to explain the historyâand negative effectsâof genetically modified (GM) plants. Among the possibilities of a GM plant is the addition of âa âterminator geneâ that causes the crop to commit genetic suicide after one generation (47). This power means that âmost standard vegetable varieties sold in stores have been bred for uniform appearance, mechanized harvest, convenience, [âŚ] and tolerance for hard travel;â as a result, flavor has suffered (48).
Americaâs acceptance of these substandard but ultimately convenient foods was the result of âfashion and marketing,â which made the âexpensive party trickâ of having out-of-season foods available into a profitable, bulk business (48). Vegetable farmers gradually stopped growing a big variety of foods in favor of having only a few modified and highly profitable varieties. As a result, âmodern U.S. consumers now get to taste less than 1 percentâ of the foods grown 100 years ago (49).
Worse, the Plant Variety Protection Act of 1970 moved âcrop control from farmers to agribusinessâ (50). Only six companies âcontrol 98 percent of the worldâs seed salesâ and they invest heavily in GM research to make plants invulnerable to insects or herbicidesâwhich they also sell (51). They also investigate farmers who save their seeds from one season to the next.
However, the result of this hybridization and genetic modification is that we depend on only a few types of crops and have lost the benefit of natural evolution. Kingsolver points out that âhistory has regularly proven it drastically unwise for a population to depend on just a few varieties for its sustenance. The Irish once depended on a single potatoâ (54).
Kingsolver is quick to point to hope, however. Organizations like Slow Food International protect heirloom species from âthe homogenization of modern fast food and lifeâ (55).
This chapter also includes Hoppâs essay âThe Strange Case of Percy Schmeiser,â which details the plight of a farmer in Canada who was sued by Monsanto for $145,000 for illegally growing crops containing their patented genes. The genes had entered his canola crop when Monsanto plants on nearby farms pollinated his own crops. The court ruled in favor of Monsanto. Some countries limit corporationsâ abilities to claim rights to intellectual property this way, but the âU.S. government has stepped in to circumvent these pro-consumer measuresâ (51).
The chapter ends with an essay from Camille entitled âFirst, Eat Your Greens.â It explores American belief in vitamins, which often contain more than the recommended doses of important minerals, and which would be unneeded if people ate a balanced, local diet. She ends with several recipes featuring April leafy greens, like spinach.
Kingsolver next describes the âvegetannual,â which is a visual representation of a single plant that grows all foods, and which she uses to tell what is in season. All annual plants follow the same life cycle, and one can harvest various foods from themââleaves, bulbs, fruits, or seeds, but each comes to us from some point along this same continuumâ (64). Kingsolver acknowledges that eating foods in season only may seem to some like deprivation âbecause weâve grown accustomed to the botanically outrageous condition of having everything, alwaysâ (65).
The transportation of food across the globe results in âthe conspicuous consumption of limited resourcesâ which âhas yet to be accepted widely as spiritual errorâ (67). The system âis not, by its nature, a boon to Third World farmers, but itâs very good business for oil companiesâ (68).
Kingsolver is hopeful about movements that support local eating, including Slow Food International. She advocates for on-season eating as a way âthat will keep grocery money in the neighborhood, where it gets recycled into your own school system and local businessesâ (69).
In each chapter, Kingsolver tells a part of the narrative of her familyâs yearlong experiment into eating only local food, using the anecdotes as springboards to explore food culture in the US in general. The reason the family undertakes the experiment is to attempt to break out of the American food culture and establish better eating habits. Beyond this, the experimentâand the bookâis meant to show how eating better and eating local is possible, debunking many food myths and assumptions along the way.
The barriers to a positive food culture are generally of three types, as Kingsolver organizes them: corporate greed, an overreliance on convenience, and simple ignorance. She explains and overcomes these with a combination of facts and the examples set by her family.
In the first section, Kingsolver begins by shedding light on the cost of the current food system, which few Americans ever consider. The main reasons are purely environmental, as âwe would reduce our countryâs oil consumption by over 1.1 million barrels of oil every weekâ (5).
However, if numbers and environmental considerations were all it took to change behaviors, everyone would be eating locally only. Kingsolver goes deeper, exploring how habits, especially eating habits, are difficult to break. In her words: âThe most difficult requirements are patience and a pinch of restraintâ (31). Combine this with the many ârevolutionaryâ changes to farming in general, promoted by massive conglomerates, which have âhelped more of us become less healthy,â and the state of the American food culture seems inescapable (19).
Kingsolver never stoops to blaming Americans in general for making poor decisions on purpose. She acknowledges and unpacks the corporate deceptions and manipulation that have resulted in an entire generation who have no real idea where their food comes from. Genetically modified foods, for example, may have begun with good intentions, but giant companies now use them to control and reap massive profits from farming, often at the expense of the public health. As a result, objectively healthy eating has become viewed as a privilege available to the wealthy.
However, Kingsolverâs point is that there is hope, and she means to show this by detailing how her family coped. After all, as she says, âculture is the property of a species,â not a privilege for the wealthy (16). She also makes the very compelling argument that much of America has forgotten what good food truly isâotherwise we would all surely realize how much tastier in-season and sustainably grown produce is. A society built on convenience has lost many things worth waiting for.
Sprinkled throughout are think-pieces and essays from Kingsolverâs husband, who delves into some unknown corners of sustainability and farming. Kingsolverâs daughter Camille generally contributes an essay to end each section, with her perspective and many recipes. The effect is to truly emphasize that this is a family project and one that anyone can undertake. As family is one of the major themes of the book, this theme is indeed fitting.
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By Barbara Kingsolver